FAQs

Landscaping

Why should I hire a experienced and fully insured Landscape contractor?

Hiring a experienced and insured landscape contractor that has stood the test of time, helps to protect you and your  property. Hiring an uninsured contractor can bring your project far more risks than savings. You can be held liable for on-the-job injuries, taxes or insurance. You can even be held liable for an uninsured contractor’s illegal acts. Be sure to check their references as well before you hire them. It is always a good idea to ask for a written certificate of insurance from any contractor you choose to hire to verify that they have workers’ compensation, general liability & business auto insurance coverage currently in force; this is usually available upon request at no additional charge. Workers’ compensation insurance protects you from liability in case a worker employed by the landscape contractor is injured on your property. General liability insurance protects against calamities such as floods or landslides caused by construction. Business and vehicle insurance provides additional protection when a contractor’s vehicle is involved in an accident on your property.

How much will it cost?

This is a common question we come across as Landscaping costs vary greatly. Things that influence landscape pricing are site access, customers desired outcome and the actual size of your landscape works. Having an indicative budget can assist us to guide you through the landscape design process to create a suitable outcome for your site, your family and your budget.

While we absolutely love Reality TV like The Block and Matt & Kim to the rescue garden makeovers, the reality is it takes a lot more work than those shows portray, hours of labour that aren’t beamed to your screens. At Looking Good Landscaping we take the time to listen to your desired outcome, we provide a quality service and product and not just a cheap quote for a quick days pay! … and 21 years later we are still here!!

We will however, find something that fits within your budget. You don’t have to do everything at once. Many of our clients decide to their front yard and come back the next year to do their backyard. There’s nothing better than a beer and BBQ on a summer’s day in your beautiful backyard for the kids to run around in. It’s worth it in the end. We promise!

I have no idea what I want, can you help?

Of course! That is our job!

The best thing is for us to come out and visit your home to get a sense of the space and surroundings. Everyone’s landscape can be a personal reflection of their tastes and individuality. We can discuss options and run ideas past you. We can also provide an obligation free quote.

How do I book a quotation/consultation?

You can email Wendy at landscaping@lookinggood.net.au or phone (08) 9524 1999.

Alternatively, there is a contact form on the contact us page that will send us a direct email.

Where do you source your plants and turf?

All plants and turf are sourced from the highest level plant producers in Perth, and we select the finest quality products they have to offer.

Will my new landscape be successful if installed in summer?

Most definitely. As long as an efficient reticulation system is installed at the same time. Water is the most critical part of any landscape, especially in WA. Warm weather is the second most important element as it helps everything grow.

Should I have a go at landscaping myself?

Many clients enlist our services only after failed DIY landscaping. Based on the evidence we have been presented, poor product selection, lack of preparation, and poor design result from DIY landscapers. Employing the expertise of a experienced and fully insured landscape contractor is recommended.

Do you provide a warranty?

We provide a full 12 month warranty on our labour. A manufacturers statutory warranty applies to all hardware.

When building a new home what is the procedure for retic and lawn?

Paving or concrete is normally installed before retic and lawn. However, the retic’s main-line water pipes and wiring must be pre-layed BEFORE any hard surfaces such as concrete, paving and retainer walls are installed.

Specifically:

The retic controller is ordinarily located next to the meter box. Ensure solenoid cables can be routed from here to the water meter without being hindered by concrete, paving or walls. Pipe and cables also need to be routed from the front to the rear yard without being hindered by concrete, paving or walls.

Always ensure a 90mm conduit is installed beneath the driveway. Feeding pipes to the council verge beneath the foot path is rarely ever a problem. We can pre-lay the pipe and cables as mentioned above.

When installing sleeves (or conduits), ensure these are constructed without bends. We CANNOT install pipe into sleeves that have 90 degree elbows. If it is to be a cable only pipe, install a drawstring and a bend is acceptable in this case.

Try to get the builder to sort the soil levels with a bobcat when they are tidying the site at the end of the build. It can be expensive getting this done afterwards due to narrow access, easily solved at the time of build if caught early enough. Note, for lawn areas, the soil needs to be about 30-40mm below surrounding hard edges such as concrete, paving and curbs.

Reticulation

When my reticulation system comes on there is no pressure. What should I do?

There could be a number of reasons, as a start find the reticulation connection to the water mains, usually close to the water meter. You will find a solenoid valve that has isolated the system from the mains. The valve may have failed internally and is not opening fully.

How to improve sprinkler pressure?

Poor sprinkler pressure may be due to a broken pipe or poor system design, such as narrow pipe or the
use of too many sprinkler outlets on a given station.

Sprinkler pressure can also be improved by:

Ensuring the existing nozzles are not “oversized” and therefore using more water than what is required. Installing low flow-rate nozzles such as MP Rotators Splitting an existing station into 2 or more zones by adding extra solenoid valves.

What is a retic “cut-in”?

This is the point where a retic system is connected to the mains water supply for maximum pressure. It is preferable to locate this as close as possible to the water meter. A retic cut-in should possess a manual shut-off valve and back flow protection device (check valve). By law, a cut-in must be installed by a licensed plumber.

Why have a ‘master’ solenoid?

Master solenoids (do not confuse these with ‘station’ solenoids) are required for retic systems that utilise mains water supply. A master solenoid is screwed directly onto the retic cut-in and only permits water to flow into the retic system when the retic is operated. There are several reasons this is needed:

Firstly this prevents the retic’s mainline pipework from being under constant ‘mains’ pressure while the
retic is switched off.

It prevents 24×7 water consumption should there be any leaks in the retic’s mainline pipework or solenoids.

Mains water supply is susceptible to pressure spikes.

My sprinklers don’t come up high enough? How do I raise my sprinklers?

Clean out the area immediately around the sprinkler. Unscrew the sprinkler from the PVC faucet, extend the sprinkler nipple to the height required and replace the sprinkler. Ensure you don’t get any sand in the threads. Pack the sand firmly around the sprinkler. A sprinkler nipple extension can be purchased at Bunnings or the like.

Why does my retic not turn on?

Again there could be several causes.

A break in the solenoid wiring between the reticulation controller and solenoids…. Have you done any gardening, planted new plants, turned the soil??

Your reticulation controller could be faulty or have a programming error.

Lawn Care

My turf has large dead and yellow areas in summer but remains lovely and green in winter. What can I do?

99% of the time your irrigation system is not watering efficiently or effectively. These areas indicate a lack of water is reaching your grass. You need to correctly space the sprinklers and ensure the pressure is correct for each station. Once you have rectified the coverage issue, you will need to increase water to these areas until they return. Fixing these things will make your grass greener in summer.

What is wrong with my buffalo, I have large brown patches?

If the cause is not lack of water then these insects may be the cause.

Black beetle and cutworm

If suspected, check by mixing one tablespoon of wetting agent in nine litres of water and pour over one square metre. Then flood the area with a hose. Grubs or beetles will come to the surface. If more than 10 are counted to the square metre, treat with a suitable insecticide.

Why is my lawn appearing blue/grey and stressed?

Your lawn will appear grey/blue and become crunchy to walk on if it is under stress from lack of water. A close inspection will show the leaf curling from dehydration.

High Winds will inhibit the correct water application being received by your lawn.

How do I keep my turf looking good?

Lightly applying fertiliser every six weeks will keep your new lawn lush, green and healthy. A regular application of a wetting agent will help with the water absorption. Water Corp allows hand watering. Although there are restrictions in place for irrigation use, hand watering is allowed. This means you can use a watering can or hand-held hose (as long as the hose only has 1 outlet) on any day of the week. Although times aren’t regulated, it is recommend to hand water before 9am or after 6pm.

Fertiliser should always be applied when the leaf of the lawn is dry, watering immediately after application. Avoid fertilising on very hot days. The most important times to feed lawns are Spring and Autumn at the rate of 20-40gms NPK per square metre. Spread evenly 50gms one clenched handful per square metre.

Fertiliser applied in early Spring will help the lawn recover quickly from Winter dormancy and resist the establishment of summer weeds. Fertiliser applied in autumn will maintain growth and colour into winter. As a general rule, 20-40grams of NPK fertiliser per square metre during the growing season (Sept through to April) should be applied every 6 to 8 weeks, however frequency depends entirely on the soil type.

Poor sands require frequent but light applications, while heavier or improved soils require less.

When will my lawn be drought hardy?

We recommend for your lawn to have a full root profile and be drought hardy that you need a full year of establishment, including one full summer. If you have maintained your lawn with watering and fertilising then you should have a root profile of 20-30cm.

When can I give my new lawn its first mow?

The first mowing usually takes place within 10-21 days of laying, depending on the season. Your new lawn will take root faster at warmer times of the year.

To see if your lawn is ready for a mow, just grab hold of the turf and see if you can lift it – if it doesn’t lift,
then you can mow.

We suggest giving your lawn a drink straight after the first mow and don’t let your lawn get too long before its first mow. If your lawn is in quite a bit of shade, it could probably be left a bit longer.

If grass is allowed to grow too long, cutting will expose brown stems-giving a scalped appearance. The lawn will look patchy, recovery will be slow, weed growth will be encouraged and thatch will develop. A height between 12 & 20mm is suitable for most lawns, fine grasses being cut closer than coarse grasses. The aim is to avoid removing more than ONE THIRD of the leaf material at any one mowing.

Will my lawn lose colour in winter?

All warm season grasses will lose some colour over the winter period. In our cold winter climate warm season grasses do not have much active growth. SIR WALTER has been proven to be a good performer compared to the rest for good winter colour. A good fertiliser program in April will help retain best winter colour.

Why do I have so many weeds in my yard?

A combination of the following factors will contribute to high weed populations:

  • A large number of weed seeds have been brought in from another source such as soil, mulches, mowing contractors or blown in from adjoining properties.
  • Your landscape design contains many bare patches or unfinished areas that provide good places for weeds to get established. Plant a competitive landscape or cover with a good thick bed of organic mulch with no bare spots.
  • Your lawn is weak, has thin areas and can’t out compete weeds. You need to take steps to make your lawn more vigorous.
  • You haven’t been keeping on top of your weed populations. You need to control weeds when they are little before they go to seed or develop. When all else fails contact a licensed weed sprayer.
How often should I weed my yard?

Frequently. The most effective way to keep weed populations down is to remove weeds as soon as you see them and before they mature and set seed.